What other gear do I need?
" It's imagination, flair, know-how, patience and hard work that creates
good movies, and before spending a not-too-small fortune you should practice
with existing equipment (a non-editing featured VCR and TV). When you are
satisfied that you really want to develop the hobby then draw up a long-term
equipment plan."
The plan should allocate purchasing priorities according to real need,
budget, format and equipment suitability. We suggested the following priorities,
the first four covering camerawork and the other two editing. Items such
as processors, controllers and titlers etc. might come later. They are not
essential to good movie-making.
Battery
power
Probably at least two batteries are necessary, but first consider whether
a battery belt, which provides far more power offers a better solution.
Tripod
Invest in a sturdy one, preferably incorporating a fluid-damped head or similar
effect, A long pan-handle will facilitate even smoother pans and tilts. Ensure
that the camcorder doesn't rock when attached to the head. Also don't mistakenly
get a tripod that is so heavy that it is a burden. You'll end up not using
it.
External
mics
The shortcomings of onboard mics. has already been mentioned. A good external
mic. like the Sennheiser 300 (discounted price £75 - £80), will
overcome most problems. They are more directional, more discriminating and
have a longer pick-up range.
Wide-angle lens
converter
The so-called wide-angle setting on a camcorder often proves inadequate when
filming in confined spaces. A converter offers more flexibility, provides
a greater depth of field, and requires less focussing precision. A bonus
is reduced magnification of camera shake, making the lens invaluable for
walking/tracking shots in, say, a busy street.
Converters have a factor, often 0.5 or 0.6. Thus a 9mm focal length becomes
4.5mm when a 0.5 converter is fitted. Unless you want a distorted "Fisheye"
image don't go below 0.5. Before buying, test that picture quality is good
and there is no cut-off (vignetting) at the corners of the viewfinder screen.
Edit
VCR
Because our students will initially have to dub to a no-frills domestic VCR,
only simple assembly editing can be achieved. For instance they will find
it virtually impossible to add commentary and/or music without further copying.
That degrades the picture. Purchase of an edit VCR is, therefore, recommended;
essential features being audio-dub, insert-edit and a jog-shuttle which allows
picture-search, backwards and forwards at various speeds, including single-frame,
A real-time counter (shows actual recorded time) and stereo sound are also
desirable features.
To match their S-VHS-C camcorder format we suggested that, budget permitting,
Ron and Eric aim for a S-VHS VCR. We plumped for a Panasonic because if,
ultimately, they decide to purchase a second edit-featured machine for
edit-playback purposes (camcorders are not recommended for long-term use
in this role) then, on current form, both the earlier and later models will
be fully compatible and can synchronise with each other. The prices of good
edit-featured VCRs vary, VHS ones ranging from £350 to £700 whilst
the superior S-VHS starts at around £850. Shop around, considerable
savings are available on discontinued models.
Stereo
Audio-mixer
This will be needed for use with the audio-dub feature on the VCR and other
sound effects. It will enable music and commentary to be mixed, at the required
volume levels, with the original sound. The resultant mix is output to the
linear track of the Master Edit tape. A mixer with slide controls is easier
and smoother to manipulate than rotary knobs. An incorporated meter, to show
whether the recording levels are sufficiently strong and properly balanced
is also useful. Again prices vary but reasonable ones can be obtained for
under £50.
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